General Hardware Help/Questions

[Syndicate]

Have a question about a piece of hardware that doesn't belong in one of the other threads? Post it here.

[TylerDurden]

so it's been a while since i've been playing around with different hardware configurations, and i've only used a personal laptop for the last five or so years so i'm a bit rusty. i'm in need of a bang-for-the-buck solid hardware configuration for a home computer.

it should be capable of the following...
- plenty of storage for music/movies (it'd be nice to use this new computer as a server or repository for the entire household)
- graphics to handle f.e.a.r. or bioshock
- processing power to handle multiple instances of visual studio 2008/photoshop/etc.
- nothing is future-proof but it'd be nice if this thing wasn't going to be looked at as outdated within the year.

at the moment it's going to run windows xp or vista, not sure which yet.

any and all comments/suggestions are welcome.

[STDSkillz]

First of all, what's your budget? Secondly, do you want to build the computer yourself or just have one shipped to you (like a Dell, HP, etc.)?

[satandole666]

If you are going to build yourself or have someone do it for you the best bang for the buck (and pretty much the standard nowadays) is something along these lines:

E8400/8500/8600 Intel Dual Core
P35 Based mobo (ASUS/Gigabyte are two good brands)
2gbs or more DDR2 (DDR3 is too expensive right now to be worth it)
1 or more ATI 4850 cards (go for a P45 mobo if you want 2 cards...not really needed though)
Corsair HX520/620 PSU or equivalent (don't go cheap here, you might regret it)
Whatever case fits your tastes
However much HDD space you need (7200.11 32MB drives are pretty much the best right now)

You should be able to build the computer above for around $6-800 easy and it will smack the shit out of modern games/applications.

And as always...shop at newegg.com

Let me know if you have any questions, I've built around a dozen custom computers.

EDIT: A few general guidelines right now are stay away from AMD processors and DDR3. Neither are worth the price/performance. Only spend the money on a quad core if you do a lot of encoding, decoding, or other heavily CPU intensive apps like photoshop.

[pyro]

i agree...i am gonna end up going with a dell machine (got a coupon ffrom them in the mail form ordering a few desktops awhile back), and you cant beat dell support. definately stay away from amd processors as the poster above said. nothing but headaches and setbacks. intel or bust.

[TylerDurden]

First of all, what's your budget? Secondly, do you want to build the computer yourself or just have one shipped to you (like a Dell, HP, etc.)?

i'd like to spend under a grand, including monitor(s). a dual-display would be nice, btw. i know most of the current batch of video cards have dual-outputs, so it shouldn't be too much of an issue. i'd be willing to go over my budget if the monitors sent it over by a few hundred.

i'd definitely rather build it myself. good times.

[STDSkillz]

Building it yourself is a great time. Exactly what Satandole said above with the dual vs. quad core thing. I have a Q9450 and I don't do much editing, but I still love my quad core with all my heart. It's amazing being able to do so many things at once. If that's something you're interested in, I'd go for the Q6600.

You can play around on Newegg if you want, you can build a great system there for ~ $800 (without monitor). I'll see if I can whip something up.

[Gary_Busey]

I love figuring out what I'm going to buy when I build a new computer. Haven't been paying too much attention to the hardware world so there's probably a better setup out there, but this is something I came up with real quick.

CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115043
Board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128337
Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125224
Monitors: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009127
HD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152098
Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042

Comes out to $1,164.87 before rebates.

[satandole666]

Your build looks pretty good.

If you are going for a 45nm quad try to get a newer E0 revision (like the new Q9650...not sure about the Q9300/9450s yet) and/or a new P45 board. People are finally breaking the previous frontside bus walls (around 450-470) on the 45nm quads with E0+P45 are are hitting 4.2ghz+ daily OCs like the current round of dual cores.

EDIT: If you are on a tighter budget (like $1000 total including monitors) one of the older Q6600 G0 Quads and a P35 mobo will work great. It'll cost a lot less then the new 45nm quads + P45 and offer about 0-10% less performance per clock depending on the application. On average a 3.6ghz Q6600 = 3.4ghz Q9450.

[Gary_Busey]

Yeah, I wasn't thinking about OC'ing. If that's something he wants to do, he should definitely go with the 45nm chips. They run so cool.

[STDSkillz]

Your build looks pretty good.

If you are going for a 45nm quad try to get a newer E0 revision (like the new Q9650...not sure about the Q9300/9450s yet) and/or a new P45 board. People are finally breaking the previous frontside bus walls (around 450-470) on the 45nm quads with E0+P45 are are hitting 4.2ghz+ daily OCs like the current round of dual cores.

EDIT: If you are on a tighter budget (like $1000 total including monitors) one of the older Q6600 G0 Quads and a P35 mobo will work great. It'll cost a lot less then the new 45nm quads + P45 and offer about 0-10% less performance per clock depending on the application. On average a 3.6ghz Q6600 = 3.4ghz Q9450.

I had built him pretty much the same system Gary recommended around the Q6600 + DFI Lan Party's P35 MOBO. Really depends on if you want to OC or not. You'd really want to get a nice aftermarket cooler if you did want to OC.

[satandole666]

Yeah...those are both really great points. If you aren't going to OC there is no good reason to spend the extra money on a P45 chipset unless you want increased Crossfire performance.

Also, at stock the 45nm quads do a good job beating the older 65nm process.

Personally...if you custom build a computer there isn't much of a reason not to at least overclock slightly. The current iteration of hardware makes it so easy to do, never mind the fact that the same silicon is found in the Q9300 and QX9650/9770 processors. The same goes for RAM and GFX cards as well.

[Gary_Busey]

I always view it as a 'need to do' type of deal. When I get to the point where I start noticing slow downs or stuttering graphics in games, I'll go ahead and overclock.

[TylerDurden]

it'd be nice to have the option for it if need be. i've never encountered a scenario where i wanted to venture into the OC no-man's-land, but it's feasible. this machine is mainly going to be used for web/graphic/software development so it definitely needs to cook. my job's changing policies a bit so i don't need to actually go to a physical office any more. as such my home office now needs to be adequate to handle it.

i'm assuming that any of these configurations would be able to handle playing f.e.a.r. on at least a medium to high graphic level?

also, i currently have a logitech mx revolution laser mouse... it seems to do the trick for both precise gaming and general use. any peripherals that might be nice to have? (no, no $10k keyboards)

[Gary_Busey]

You'll be able to play any game at the highest settings with that setup. How much do you want to spend. I have a G25 and use it with GTR2. It's pricey but fucking awesome.

http://images.google.com/url?q=http://www.zwtm.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/12/logitech-g25-racing-wheel.jpg&usg=AFQjCNGAQ6zMssiB5DYdanlUgsjiQhbsqQ

[STDSkillz]

it'd be nice to have the option for it if need be. i've never encountered a scenario where i wanted to venture into the OC no-man's-land, but it's feasible. this machine is mainly going to be used for web/graphic/software development so it definitely needs to cook. my job's changing policies a bit so i don't need to actually go to a physical office any more. as such my home office now needs to be adequate to handle it.

In that case, I'd go with a quad-core processor. All of them are great CPUs, but like others have suggested on here, you might want to go with one that has the 45nm technology (like the Q9300, Q9450, etc.).

i'm assuming that any of these configurations would be able to handle playing f.e.a.r. on at least a medium to high graphic level?

Oh yes. If you spent $800-$1,000 on a system, it'd kick every game in the ass (the only exception being Crysis, at this point). Especially with a HD4850.

also, i currently have a logitech mx revolution laser mouse... it seems to do the trick for both precise gaming and general use. any peripherals that might be nice to have? (no, no $10k keyboards)

Depends on your preference, really. Until recently, I've never really splurged on a nice keyboard (but I wanted to go wireless), and I was always content with them being cheap. That mouse you have is fine.

[dadaelus]

A cheap solution that has worked for me has been the bare-bone kits at tiger direct. The last system I got from there:

MSI K9A2 Platinum Motherboard
AMD Phenom X4 9850 Black Ed. 2.50GHz
Corsair 4096MB PC6400 DDR2
Maxtor DiamondMax 21 500GB Hard Drive
Visiontek Radeon HD 4850 512MB PCIe 2.0
Ultra Aluminum Full-Tower Case
Ultra X3 ULT40064 1000-Watt Power Supply

This came in at $899 plus shipping on a special. It would put you over the budget after adding on monitor(s) but they have other kits there that would hit your requirements.

[satandole666]

I dont know anything about the Ultra brand PSUs (most are just rebadged from another company anyway) so I'm not sure about their quality. The one part I never go cheap on is PSUs. I lost the first computer I ever built (everything but DVD drive) because I had a cheap PSU go out, no surge or anything.

Other than my current distaste for AMD (used them up until C2D came out, since then they can't compete) that's a really solid system.

[Gary_Busey]

1000W is overkill, IMO.

[STDSkillz]

1000W is overkill, IMO.

Unless you're running some tri-SLI monolith of a computer, I agree. A 620W Corsair PS will be more than enough.

[Jason]

Definitely get a quad core if you're building it yourself. My next computer will be an AMD quad core because they are coming way down in price and I think they run cooler. I had a problem with my intel dual core overheating. Not to mention I have a mediocre graphics card (GeForce 7900 GS) and cheap value RAM, but when I check my performance index in Vista I am limited by my CPU.

[Gary_Busey]

Intels run more efficiently than AMD chips nowadays. The days of the PrescHOT are over.

[Stax]

I have a Logitech desktop mic I use for gaming and such. All of the sudden today I discover it's stopped working. Any ideas for things to check?

[Gary_Busey]

So, I have an HD digital cable box that I recorded a football game on. Is there any way to get that recording off of the cable box onto a computer? It has all kinds of hookups on it, including USB.

[Fiend1138]

So I think I might be in the market for a new pc desktop.
I've been thinking about this:

Dell - XPS Desktop with Intel Core 2 Duo Processor E8400

http://images.bestbuy.com/BestBuy_US/images/products/8878/8878841_rb.jpg

* Intel® Core™2 Duo desktop processor E8400 with 1333MHz frontside bus, 6MB L2 cache and 3.0GHz processor speed
* 6GB DDR2 memory for multitasking power, expandable to 8GB
* Multiformat DVD±RW/CD-RW drive
* 640GB Serial ATA hard drive (7200 rpm)
* NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT graphics with up to 512MB video memory; integrated 7.1-channel audio; S-video output
* 19-in-1 media card reader
* 2 IEEE 1394 (FireWire) ports and 6 high-speed USB 2.0 ports (2 front, 4 rear)
* Built-in 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet network connection with RJ-45 connector
* Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit operating system

Thoughts? Suggestions?

[Jack Bauer]

whats the cost?

[Fiend1138]

whats the cost?

$1,199.99 at Best Buy (Cheaper if Erad can hook it up)

[Jack Bauer]

you'll probably have to touch his winky though

[Fiend1138]

you'll probably have to touch his winky though

Nah, I'd just find him an autographed Joss Whedon 8x10

[STDSkillz]

Depends on what you want to do with it. Gaming, encoding, photo editing, etc...

Are you looking to buy a pre-built system or building one yourself?

[iolas]

I guess this goes here...

I have a stereo with one aux red/white audio hookup.
I'd like to run my satellite and ps3 through the stereo without having to switch cables at the back of the stereo every time. Is there a piece of equipment that will do this?

[Syndicate]

I guess this goes here...

I have a stereo with one aux red/white audio hookup.
I'd like to run my satellite and ps3 through the stereo without having to switch cables at the back of the stereo every time. Is there a piece of equipment that will do this?


Cheap Way... RCA Y- Adapter. You will need two. One for each channel.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MR44V9FVL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


The more expensive way would be to buy a RCA Switcher.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/l63ab_part1.jpg

[Superhuman]

$1,199.99 at Best Buy (Cheaper if Erad can hook it up)
For $1200 I can build a better/cheaper computer than that.

[Superhuman]

https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/19-115-017-04.jpg Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Quad-Core Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115017)Model #:BX80562Q6600Item #:N82E16819115017Return Policy:Processors (CPUs) Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#5)In Stock $189.99 $189.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/13-128-347-02.jpg GIGABYTE GA-EP43-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P43 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128347)Model #:GA-EP43-DS3LItem #:N82E16813128347Return Policy:Limited 30-Day Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#2)In Stock $94.99 -$5.00 Instant $89.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/20-231-122-05.jpg G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQ - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122)Model #:F2-6400CL5D-4GBPQItem #:N82E16820231122Return Policy:Memory (Modules, USB) Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#22)In Stock $106.99 -$40.00 Instant $66.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/22-148-288-01.jpg Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 ST3500320AS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148288)Model #:ST3500320ASItem #:N82E16822148288Return Policy:Limited 30-Day Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#2)In Stock $74.99 $74.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/17-139-001-20.jpg CORSAIR CMPSU-520HX 520W ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139001)Model #:CMPSU-520HXItem #:N82E16817139001Return Policy:Standard Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#1)In StockMail-in Rebate (http://images10.newegg.com/uploadfilesfornewegg/rebate/SH/Corsair6MIRsSep1Sep1508ll97.pdf)
$139.99 -$25.00 Instant $114.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/11-119-137-21.jpg COOLER MASTER RC-690-KKN1-GP Black SECC/ ABS ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137)Model #:RC-690-KKN1-GPItem #:N82E16811119137Return Policy:Standard Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#1)In Stock $84.99 -$5.00 Instant $79.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/14-161-243-02.jpg HIS Hightech H485QS512P Radeon HD 4850 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported IceQ4 Video Card - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161243)Model #:H485QS512PItem #:N82E16814161243Return Policy:Standard Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#1)In Stock $194.99 $194.99 1
https://a248.e.akamai.net/f/248/9241/30d/images1.newegg.com/ProductImageCompressAll/27-151-171-02.jpg SAMSUNG 22X DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-S223F - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151171)Model #:SH-S223FItem #:N82E16827151171Return Policy:Standard Return Policy (http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/ReturnPolicy.aspx#1)In Stock $24.99 $24.99

Subtotal: $836.92

[One Under]

I'm needing a new monitor, and I'm just planning on picking one up tomorrow at Best Buy or Circuit City. What's the best choice for a Flat-Panel around $200?

[fuldstændigamok]

http://images.pcwelt.de/images/pcwelt/bdb/1913450/458x348.jpghttp://www.discounter-archiv.de/bilder/archivbilder/2008-05/ALDI-Sued2008-05-26/352445a.jpg

AMD Phenom X4 9500 Quad Core 8MB cache
3gb (ddr2 sdram)
500 GB S-ATA 8mb cache
NVidia GeForce Go 9500GT 256mb
Blue Ray & HD DVD player and write single or dual-layer DVD-R/DVD-RW
6 usb ports
Wireless Keyboard
Wireless scroll mouse
WiFi Wireless Lan IEEE 802.11 n Draft
HDMI socket
eSATA connection


Software inc.
Windows Vista® Home Premium incl. SP1
Medion Home Cinema Suite
Microsoft Works 9.0 with Office "Home and Student"**(60 days trial)
Nero BURNING ROM 8 Essentials
Ulead Photoimpact 12 SE
BullGuard Internet Security incl. 90 days internet update

3 years full warranty

950$, is it a good buy?

[Superhuman]

No. That's an absolutely horrible deal.

[Syndicate]

Sounds like cheap parts to me. Plus I'd never pay $900 for anything that wasn't a Dual Core Intel chip.

[Kopek]

Noob.

[FarEastFornicator]

Laptop Memory Question:

I purchased my laptop last year (July 2007). I decided to skip going for extra memory since the price jump was so high.

Now, I can see I can't put off buying memory with all the photoshop work I do.

My current setup has two slots -- the slots are filled in with generic 512mb to equal 1GB ram.

Does it matter what type I order from Amazon?

After search, Toshiba recommended one toshiba memory brand 1gb upgrade for my laptop and stated it was:
PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2


My question:
Does MHZ matter? Can I buy two of these from Amazon for (4GB)??? Crucial 2GB Set(2x1GB) 200-Pin PC2 5300 667Mhz SODIMM DDR2 RAM (http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2x1GB-200-Pin-667Mhz-SODIMM/dp/B000FQ2JLW/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1221867074&sr=8-1)

[Gary_Busey]

For those of you that have multiple computers, a pretty cool little piece of software:

http://lifehacker.com/software/dual-monitor/hack-attack-control-multiple-computers-with-a-single-keyboard-and-mouse-254648.php

[DjAg]

I have a liquid cooling system, and it is working fine for what it is hooked up to do (just cool the CPU)... But now I have a VGA waterblock and a VGA RAM waterblock, meaning I can now incorporate them into my liquid cooling configuraiton.

However, I am not sure what the best steps would be in approaching getting all of the old water out of the system. I was told you are to replace the water/coolant every 6 months or so anyways, but nobody anywhere has any fucking clue what the best way is to get the old water the fuck out first. Google is of very little help to me, but I might be using the wrong keywords... Never know.

If it helps, I have a Zalman Reserator 2.

[Daydreamer]

I don't think this would be a hardware problem and I'm sure a mod can put it where it needs to go, not deleted I hope. I have a 2GB and an 8 GB flashdrive. The 2GB has never given me a problem. A friend of mine Dl'd the 1st season of Dexter and instead of DLing it myself I put the episodes on the flashdrives from his computer. The file folders looked fine when we put them on the flashdrives, but when I got home only 2 on the 8GB were intact. The rest of the folders were there, but in the folders were some odd writing(cyrillic looking maybe?) and showed little data in them. When I pulled up the properties for that flashdrive it said it was almost full, but I couldn't find the episodes. I even searched the flashdrive for hidden files, but no luck. The 2GB did fine and the episodes on it moved easily to my hard drive. Anyone have an idea what I did wrong? We put the stuff on them right before I left, I went straight home and tried to move the files to my computer. Call me stupid if you'd like, but I'll appreciate the help. thanks

[Syndicate]

I don't think this would be a hardware problem and I'm sure a mod can put it where it needs to go, not deleted I hope. I have a 2GB and an 8 GB flashdrive. The 2GB has never given me a problem. A friend of mine Dl'd the 1st season of Dexter and instead of DLing it myself I put the episodes on the flashdrives from his computer. The file folders looked fine when we put them on the flashdrives, but when I got home only 2 on the 8GB were intact. The rest of the folders were there, but in the folders were some odd writing(cyrillic looking maybe?) and showed little data in them. When I pulled up the properties for that flashdrive it said it was almost full, but I couldn't find the episodes. I even searched the flashdrive for hidden files, but no luck. The 2GB did fine and the episodes on it moved easily to my hard drive. Anyone have an idea what I did wrong? We put the stuff on them right before I left, I went straight home and tried to move the files to my computer. Call me stupid if you'd like, but I'll appreciate the help. thanks

I have had this happen to myself many times. The data probably got corrupt because you didn't properly eject/stop the USB Flashdrives before removing them. Honestly if you are dealing with an XP system this happens very rarely, but if your friends PC was a Vista machine I have noticed that Vista throws a shit fit when you remove a USB device without properly ejecting/stopping it first. All you can do is go back to his machine, and first off repair the device using his PC. You may or may not have to do this. It really just depends. If it does need repaired it'll prompt you. Either way.. repair or not, then you should just delete the contents of the drive and re-copy the files.

[Gary_Busey]

What's the file system on that flash drive?

[Daydreamer]

I'll have to retry it when I'm over there again in a couple of days. One thing I did notice about the flash drives. The 2GB has a virtual compression program and a expander program. The 8GB FD does not. Would that make a difference?


FAT 32 is the file system

[Syndicate]

I'll have to retry it when I'm over there again in a couple of days. One thing I did notice about the flash drives. The 2GB has a virtual compression program and a expander program. The 8GB FD does not. Would that make a difference?


FAT 32 is the file system

Yeah.. Fuck that compression shit. It is fine being FAT 32, but I'd format the fucker if I were you and get rid of that program.

[Daydreamer]

I did reformat the 8GB. I had to since the data still took up room on the flashdrive, but was not in the folders. It would not let me delete the folders either so I reformatted.

[HAWK]

Not sure if this is the right thread...but I fig'd it was the closest.

I need suggestions.

I'm looking for an aftermarket (i.e. no subscription) DVR or Media Center/Console that will also allow me to access the normal DVR "functions" along with copy my MP3 library, vids, pics, etc., to the internal hard drive via a network connection (WiFi or CAT5 would both work) and then access and play via remote through my home theater system/HDTV.

Thanks in advance.

[Syndicate]

Not sure if this is the right thread...but I fig'd it was the closest.

I need suggestions.

I'm looking for an aftermarket (i.e. no subscription) DVR or Media Center/Console that will also allow me to access the normal DVR "functions" along with copy my MP3 library, vids, pics, etc., to the internal hard drive via a network connection (WiFi or CAT5 would both work) and then access and play via remote through my home theater system/HDTV.

Thanks in advance.


I know Face actually has something like this because his cable company doesn't offer a good DVR or some crap like that. I'd ask him what's he'd got.

[HAWK]

Face said he has no clue what you're talking about.

[DjAg]

Face said he has no clue what you're talking about.

Well, there is a way to turn an old computer into a DVR, though I've never done it and can't truly verify it

http://lifehacker.com/software/dvr/hack-attack-build-your-own-dvr-165963.php

[HAWK]

Yeah, I was reading about several that were similar to that. I actually have the spare parts to do this...but I've built projects like this so many times that I'm actually sick of it. I just want to buy something and it just work out of the box.

[dadaelus]

There is a version of Ubuntu, if you want to deal with a *nix variant, that does this.

http://www.mythbuntu.org/

[HAWK]

That's actualy pretty cool. The only thing is what do you use for a remote? 'Cus I'm lazy.

[dadaelus]

I've been looking at getting an Archos video player with the DVR base station.

http://www.archos.com/products/gen_5/index.html?country=global&lang=en

[HAWK]

What size HD do they offer?

EDIT: Nevermind. I found it.

This actually might be perfect.

[dadaelus]

That's actualy pretty cool. The only thing is what do you use for a remote? 'Cus I'm lazy.

I think that if you have an IRDA port on your PC there is a widget that will integrate with a universal remote. (I'm lazy to.) There are also a couple of USB based dongle/remotes out there as well.

[dadaelus]

What size HD do they offer?

from 30 gig to 320 gig

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41VBnLbgeAL._SS500_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Archos-250-Internet-Media-Tablet/dp/B001D0E4DA/ref=pd_bbs_sr_6?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1222811045&sr=8-6

[HAWK]

I think that if you have an IRDA port on your PC there is a widget that will integrate with a universal remote. (I'm lazy to.) There are also a couple of USB based dongle/remotes out there as well.

I'm going to have to really read up on this. I already have just about everything I'd need to build this other than the remote option. If this works as well as it's advertised this could be an awesome setup.

Thanks for the heads up.

[Gary_Busey]

For all you Canadians, NewEgg Canada has officially launched.

http://www.newegg.ca/

[dadaelus]

For all you Canadians, NewEgg Canada has officially launched.

http://www.newegg.ca/

Oddly enough I cannot buy either beer or hockey tickets through them. That hardly seems Canadian.

[FarEastFornicator]

Laptop Memory Question:

I purchased my laptop last year (July 2007). I decided to skip going for extra memory since the price jump was so high.

Now, I can see I can't put off buying memory with all the photoshop work I do.

My current setup has two slots -- the slots are filled in with generic 512mb to equal 1GB ram.

Does it matter what type I order from Amazon?

After search, Toshiba recommended one toshiba memory brand 1gb upgrade for my laptop and stated it was:
PC2-4200 533MHz DDR2


My question:
Does MHZ matter? Can I buy two of these from Amazon for (4GB)??? Crucial 2GB Set(2x1GB) 200-Pin PC2 5300 667Mhz SODIMM DDR2 RAM (http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-2x1GB-200-Pin-667Mhz-SODIMM/dp/B000FQ2JLW/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1221867074&sr=8-1)




To answer my own question: I had to go to Toshiba and look up the exact specs of my memory cards. I upgraded from 1gb to 4gb and wow. I went with Kingston. I FLY.

[Face]

so my stupid printer says it has a paper jam, but there's no paper in it... now rather than recreate one of my favourite movies, I'd like to try and fix the fucking thing before I murder its ass... it's a Canon i900D, so if anyone has that same model and knows a reset code or something, I'd appreciate it

[Syndicate]

so my stupid printer says it has a paper jam, but there's no paper in it... now rather than recreate one of my favourite movies, I'd like to try and fix the fucking thing before I murder its ass... it's a Canon i900D, so if anyone has that same model and knows a reset code or something, I'd appreciate it


Just go buy a new one. Printers are like $80.00 these days.

[NOTKyle]

My laptop has been running slow as shit lately, and I have no idea why. I'm doing nothing differently, and do nothing that's worthy of a super slow system.

Anybody have any ideas on what it is or what I can do to find out/speed it up?

[NOTKyle]

Besides finallyfast.com

[Rover]

spyware/adware/malware/virus?

Did you check?

[Gary_Busey]

Boot into safe mode, run a virus scanner, run a spyware scanner, uninstall any software you don't use, run disk cleanup, defragment.


That'll be a good start.

[DjAg]

Boot into safe mode, run a virus scanner, run a spyware scanner, uninstall any software you don't use, run disk cleanup, defragment.


That'll be a good start.


I recommend these freeware programs:

CCleaner (http://www.ccleaner.com/) (Cleans up a whole shit load)
HijackThis (http://www.download.com/Trend-Micro-HijackThis/3000-8022_4-10227353.html) (and then submit your results here (http://www.hijackthis.de/en), and delete entries appropriately)
Avira Antivir (http://www.free-av.com/en/download/index.html) (One of the best free Virus protection programs)
SuperAntiSpyware (http://www.superantispyware.com/) (Gets a very good % of malware)
MalwareBytes Anti-Malware (http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php) (Cleans up what others can't)
JkDefrag (http://www.kessels.com/Jkdefrag/) or Defraggler (http://www.defraggler.com/) (Two pretty damn good defragging programs)


Make sure you run CCleaner before you run any malware/virus scans, it truly speeds them up a lot by reducing the amount of pointless crap it has to scrounge through. Try to run all of these in safe mode, as it frees up a lot of shit, and prevents some issues.

And yes, my recommendations change from time to time... As dangers change, so do their solutions.

[NOTKyle]

CCleaner found 19 gigs of stuff to delete. Good golly.

[Skybase]

so my stupid printer says it has a paper jam, but there's no paper in it... now rather than recreate one of my favourite movies, I'd like to try and fix the fucking thing before I murder its ass... it's a Canon i900D, so if anyone has that same model and knows a reset code or something, I'd appreciate it

I'm not sure of a reset code but know that oftentimes paper fibers can basically plug up the sensors in the printer, making it think there's a paper jam. If all paper's cleaned out and restarting the printer doesn't fix it. .try some compressed air. you can also use Isopropyl alcohol (no skin conditioners, highest alcohol content you can find) and clean off rollers/anywhere else that it would appear as though their could be any sensing going on. Also sometimes helps overall print quality to VERY carefully use a Q-tip w/ alcohol on the clear strip that the ink carrier uses to align. (behind the cartridges across the printer)

But basically, compressed air or just blow out the printer to clear any paper fibers for your particular issue.

[SniffTheLog]

I've had a problem with my keyboard for a few weeks now. Some of the buttons don't do what they should. If I press the up arrow it doesn't go up, it types "9ol.\" and performs the F9 function. If I press CAPS lock, it types "4rfv" and turns down my volume. If I press the eject button it types "1qa" performs the F11 function and turns down the brightness. I don't know what the shit is happening. Any advice?

It's an iBook G4, by the way.

[dick_darlington]

ok, i think im at the end of the line for my dvd burner.. it won't even read anymore for any of the comps i have at home. is there a way to get it to read on the computer??

if it doesn't work.. what external dvd burner should i buy? the one that i have right now is a benq and ive had it for a little over three years.

[dadaelus]

I have a Plextor PX-740UF and its been a reliable tank.

[Skybase]

Plextors are normally EXCELLENT drives. Those and Lite-On have had good track records in the past. don't know much about Lite-ons anymore tho, so not sure if they've kept their record. Plextors tend to be quieter and very solid. In the oldenback days they were renown for recording material that other drives wouldn't. Seems that Plextor's may not be the cheapest drives you can get anymore but they're usually worth it.

The drives are pretty simple as far as getting them to detect. If it's not, and has power, the primary thing i'd check is another USB cable to rule that out. Wiggle the cable around at either end, and if you don't notice any detection I think I'd be looking for that new drive.

[Swurgen]

I need to buy a new desktop for all of the photo/video shit associated with a new baby. I don't have the knowledge to put one together myself. Anyplace special I should start looking or warnings not to look at all? Anybody run across any great black friday deals I should be looking into?

[s0bv1ou5lyd3sprt]

Anybody run across any great black friday deals I should be looking into?

http://www.blackfriday.info/

It looks to be a lot of laptops in the ads.

[Swurgen]

Yeah...I've seen the laptops in all of the BF stuff I've been sorting through. I'm preferring a desktop and was just wondering if anybody stumbled across some good relevant ads in their travels. There are a bunch of Dell coupons out there but heard bad things about them.

[NOTKyle]

So I'm looking for which type of memory to get for my laptop, and on Newegg's memory configuration tool my model doesn't show up in the data base.

Mt3707 shows up, but not my MT3708 (Gateway).

eh?

[DjAg]

So I'm looking for which type of memory to get for my laptop, and on Newegg's memory configuration tool my model doesn't show up in the data base.

Mt3707 shows up, but not my MT3708 (Gateway).

eh?

http://support.gateway.com/s/Mobile/2007/Apache/1014352R/1014352Rsp2.shtml

1024 MB DDR2 memory 533 MHz (2 × 512)
Expandable to 2 GB
Total slots: 2 | Available slots: 0

[Archetype]

So I'm looking for which type of memory to get for my laptop,
4 gig is always fun. And if you have vista, anything less than 3 may be retarded.

[DjAg]

http://forum.gorillamask.net/images/reputation/reputation_pos.gif General Hardware... (http://forum.gorillamask.net/showthread.php?p=266010#post266010) 11-28-2008 09:14 PM DrDeath6969 (http://forum.gorillamask.net/member.php?u=9) dude this means nothing to me. don't i need to buy a certain kind of memory? i know NOTHING about hardware

Sorry, maybe this link will help... Judging by what is installed by default in your laptop, I'd say these sticks should be compatible (assuming you wish to upgrade to 2 GB of RAM):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010260381%201052910525%201309221133%20130912111 7&name=2GB%20(2%20x%201GB)

(I'd go with Crucial...)

[NOTKyle]

I'd like to expand to 4, but judging by your previous post I max out at 2?

Or does that mean 2 per slot?

What if I exceed the limit?

FJALREJAL;???

[DjAg]

I'd like to expand to 4, but judging by your previous post I max out at 2?

Or does that mean 2 per slot?

What if I exceed the limit?

FJALREJAL;???

I had to check myself, because although it typically means 2GB overall... it isn't 100% specified in that original link, but...

http://www.memory-up.com/Memory/GatewayMT5514.html
Max. Memory Per System: 2048MB (2GB) Max. Memory Per Slot: 1024MB (1GB)

... indicates 2 overall. 2 GB honestly is enough, at least for a laptop, unless you plan on video editing or web design or something else that may require multiple massive programs being loaded.

[NOTKyle]

I won't be doing anything crazy, but I'm going to be buying a monitor soon so I can dual screen it. Things have been lagging a bit lately, so I figured I'd add what I could.

I'm sure that doubling it will take care of things.

[Archetype]

Is that because of the motherboard?

[DjAg]

Is that because of the motherboard?
The limit of 2GB? Depends how everything hooks up internally. Sometimes the chasis have adapters/connectors to the mobo that can limit the quantity and quality of compatible RAM, but most likely (I'd say 99% chance) it's the mobo itself.

[Archetype]

They aren't terribly expensive though, are they?

[DjAg]

They aren't terribly expensive though, are they?

For laptops? As far as I know, most mobo's are custom fitted to the laptop they come in, but I could very well be wrong for all I know. I've only replaced desktop mobo's... When a laptop mobo dies, we normally strip the working parts (ODD, Battery, LCD, Keyboard, Speakers, HDD, etc.) off of it and sell them or keep them for replacements. I've never even considered replacing a laptop mobo...

Desktop mobo being expensive? Depending on what you need/want, they can be terribly cheap, but can also get a little pricey.

EDIT:: And as far as I know, the chassis/mobo are only easily changeable in the Nexlink Carbon. The place I work at resells them, so I hear a shitload about them...

[NOTKyle]

So what would happen if I threw 4 gigs in there anyway?

Nuclear holocaust?

[DjAg]

So what would happen if I threw 4 gigs in there anyway?

Nuclear holocaust?

It probably just won't boot up at all.

[FarEastFornicator]

It will beep at you continuously and then you will try 20 different variations with the slots until you discover you bought a card that was slightly different non ECC registered that wasn't listed in the product description when you bought it.

[NOTKyle]

Is the Logitech MX (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104015) worth that amount of money? It looks damn sexy.

[DjAg]

Personally, I think any wireless input device is worthless... Battery life, and I've yet to use a wireless mouse that I haven't noticed semi-inaccurate movement, especially delays. Same with guitar controllers from guitar hero and such, I rule with wired guitars, but get much lower percentages with wireless ones.

Plus, $85 + tax + shipping? Again, personally, I prefer fairly cheap wired mice with less than 7 buttons. Chances are you will only use 3 buttons on the mouse anyways, aside from gaming, and even then, 7 buttons is much. Typically, only the main 3 + the inner 2 are used, at most. Much easier to use the thumb than the ring/pinky to, say, reload ingame or something. Then again I paid $50 for my mouse (from woot.com), which is a Razer Copperhead, and it fucking kicks my ass sideways. I've never had such accurate/fast control, and it has 7-buttons, though I use only 4 at the very most.

But, just like Windows vs Mac, it's truly all about preference...

[NOTKyle]

It just looks so damn comfortable.

[DjAg]

It just looks so damn comfortable.

Honestly, never assume a mouse's comfort until you have held it in your hand. This is coming from a guy who sells and fixes computers: You have NO FUCKING CLUE until you handle one.

It's like seeing a chick who dances well at a club... Yea, she looks like she could be the queen of teh secks, but until she's riding you, do you really know?

[STDSkillz]

Are you suggesting I make sweet love to my mouse right this second?

[Gary_Busey]

I completely agree with DjAg, to me, wireless mice seem pointless. Same thing with wireless keyboards. I use the MX518 right now and I love it. Feels great, very responsive, and you can adjust sensitivity on the fly. It's only $40 too.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178

[Le Goat]

Mine has zero lag and works superbly with my laptop too.

[NOTKyle]

I'll probably just run up to Best Buy and spend $20 or so.

nvm!11

[The Dude]

Perhaps stupid questions, but is there a relatively easy way to setup a wireless monitor? either through the network itself or through a direct wireless connection?

[Skybase]

Is the Logitech MX (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104015) worth that amount of money? It looks damn sexy.

I have this mouse and I LOVE it! It's probably not for everyone and yes, it's very expensive. It's laid out perfectly for me although I don't use that side "scroll" button myself. I don't have it set up to do anything. I LOVE the forward/back buttons and the heavy metal central scrollwheel. And in long documents being able to press it to release the "clicking" scroll and just fly through pages of crap it very nice. I find myself just playing with it sometimes while browsing a short page. It just feels so nice. The mouse responds wonderfully in my experience and the batteries last quite a long time.

I'm not really thrilled that it's a built-in rechargeable battery but I've had it for a couple of years now and it's held up quite well. Yes, a VERY nice feeling mouse!

If you dont' mind spending the money I'd give it a try. But, just to throw it out there. .it IS a very expensive mouse.

[Skybase]

Perhaps stupid questions, but is there a relatively easy way to setup a wireless monitor? either through the network itself or through a direct wireless connection?

Not saying it's CHEAP, but I guess relatively simple anyhow. . .

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?sku=A1115769&cs=04&c=us&l=en&dgc=SS&cid=30098&lid=674098

May find cheaper prices elsewhere. . ?

[Limp]

I have the wired MX 518 at home and love it.

I have used a coworkers MX Revolution before at my old job and it is really nice. If you do a lot of computer work/games then YES, it is worth every penny. (BTW he paid $120 for it no too long ago.

[The Dude]

hmm, maybe a cheap desktop with wireless keyboard/mouse would be better solution anyway.

[Limp]

hmm, maybe a cheap desktop with wireless keyboard/mouse would be better solution anyway.
Get a long DVI/VGA cord, run it up the wall, across the ceiling and down the wall and make it come out near where you want to sit. Then when you want to use the wall mounted monitor, you just plug ANY laptop into that cord.

It's similar to how a lot of people do projectors, they run the DVI/VGA cord from the ceiling mounted projector to ground level so ANYONE who comes in with a laptop can access the projector.

It's 1 cord with no software needed, totally simple and fairly cheap.

[Skybase]

hmm, maybe a cheap desktop with wireless keyboard/mouse would be better solution anyway.


How nice is your laptop? Are you able/wanting to view Blu-Ray or other Hi-Def video from it? Too cheap of a computer may have issues with this format. Just throwing it out there in case.

[Blue]

I want to buy a laptop for work and don't want to spend a lot of dollars so I'm looking for a second hand one.
It will only be used for running Solidworks & EdgeCam Cad/Cam programs. No internet, networking etc.
Both programs can be a bit heavy to run at times as they're both 3D engineering modeling orientated, so what would be an acceptable 2nd hand comp to get?
I'm guessing min of 3GHz and at least 1 gig RAM.

[Skybase]

I don't know those programs well, but ifyou're looking for WinXP system those specs would probably be okay. Do the programs offer support for Multi-core processors? I'd think that would make a HUGE difference in such programs if they do. The RAM of course, 1GB I'd assume would be the minimum. Again depending on how big of designs you're working on I'd probably recommend more if possible.

For the type of stuff you're doing I'd probably (I don't know laptops as well as desktops, but. . ) look at something like a Toshiba or maybe even a Sony. Normally I only recommend Sony Laptops for Multimedia setups but your requirements may be very similar? (These recommendations are just a start of course. . . .)

[STDSkillz]

Just remember that higher GHz doesn't necessarily mean a better processor. The old Pentium 4's would run at 3.0 GHz, but even a Core 2 Duo running at 1.8 GHz is vastly superior...

[DjAg]

Just remember that higher GHz doesn't necessarily mean a better processor. The old Pentium 4's would run at 3.0 GHz, but even a Core 2 Duo running at 1.8 GHz is vastly superior...

well, there are 2 of them (1.8 x 2 = 3.6), but you are right (and it's fairly inaccurate to calculate the core 2 duo speed that way, anyways). Cache/FSB have more to do with it than the CPU's "speed"

[Pollo]

I want to buy a laptop for work and don't want to spend a lot of dollars so I'm looking for a second hand one.
It will only be used for running Solidworks & EdgeCam Cad/Cam programs. No internet, networking etc.
Both programs can be a bit heavy to run at times as they're both 3D engineering modeling orientated, so what would be an acceptable 2nd hand comp to get?
I'm guessing min of 3GHz and at least 1 gig RAM.

since I'm also in the market for a new laptop, if you're going to be running those computer aided design programs and will be doing alot of multitasking, I would go with the Intel Core 2 Duo processor ... most of them that I've seen run at 2.0 GHz or more. typically RAM I have seen on currently new laptop models are from 3-4 GB of RAM. I'll admit I lean towards the Toshiba/HP brands, and they're in the $600-900 price range depending on (1) how big a hard drive you need, (2) size of the screen, and (3) processor speed (the difference from a 5800 Centrino processor to a 8100+ processor could be at least $300 or so bucks).

[Blue]

Thanks so far.

I used to run the same programs on an old 1.8GHz with 750MB RAM and some 256 video card. They would work but bog down every now and then, especially when rendering and writing the CNC code.
If new weren't so expensive here, I'ld probably go new, so that's why I'm looking at 2nd hand. Plus it will probably get covered in oil, dust and shit sitting on the bench at work.

[Gary_Busey]

Are there any high-capacity MP3 players that have bluetooth capabilities?

[Jackcraver]

There is a Sony and an Insignia MP3 bluetooth but it only supports up to 4GB. What size were you looking for?

[Gary_Busey]

As big as possible. 120GB would be nice. I was looking at a Zune, but I'm gonna hold off until it supports Bluetooth.

[Jackcraver]

Yeah and unfortunately I have not found any cool addons that will give the Zune or Ipod bluetooth capabilities. I will keep an eye out and if I find something I will link it back here for you.

[hishiad]

Okay I've recently built a PC for my fiance and I've ran into all kinds of troubles. First I ran into a too weak power supply. Finally got that fixed. And now the keyboard and the mouse are acting funky.


Basically in windows the mouse is extremely slow in responding. Like you have to really push the buttons instead of an easy click. The keyboard is a headache when you attempt to use the keys they beep (like system speaker beeping) and half the time it acts like you're not typing at all it's a chore just to type one letter.

Any clues? I've reinstalled a fresh copy of windows thinking perhaps it messed up with drivers.


Both the mouse and keyboard are P2 and the motherboard is a new. All the connections on the motherboard are secure (checked twice) the RAM is fine nothing appears to be burnt up and there also appears to be no issues with overheating.

[s0bv1ou5lyd3sprt]

Did you install the software that came with the mouse and keyboard? And which ones are they?

[hishiad]

just basic keyboard/mouse I don't think they have software.


the mouse is an old school one with the ball in the bottom not even optical.


Also my fans just keep running even when I shutdown my machine. Is this a possible CPU overheating (I've hardly had it on) or is this an AMD mode issue?

[Gary_Busey]

Also my fans just keep running even when I shutdown my machine. Is this a possible CPU overheating (I've hardly had it on) or is this an AMD mode issue?
Sounds like either a motherboard or PSU problem. Check all your power connections. Try and use fan connections on the motherboard when possible instead of connecting them directly to the PSU. Do you have an extra PSU you could switch out with the one you're using?

[Skybase]

Do ANY keys on the keyboard act this way? Like your arrow keys, etc? if so, I'd get into the system bios and see if it acts the same way. Be sure to tcheck for bent/broken pins on the end of the PS/2 plugs.

With your fan issues I'd be looking and double/triple checking any connections in your computer as well. You used the spacers when installing the motherboard into the case right? It's all properly grounded? Check to be sure all capacitors on motherboard are good while you're in there.

Lots of things to check but sounds like a possible power/shorting issue up front.

do you have an MS/DOS boot diskette perchance? Or even put in the Windows disc and instead of installing, to go the console on boot? See if the keyboard acts up in there? (usually via the console you can get to a DOS prompt where you can try some of the keys on your keyboard)

[007]

sorry if i'm off topic but have you tried the mouse settings sensitivity settings in the control panel?

[Skybase]

Worth checking of course. Since we're looking at issues with the keyboard not working well also and the fans staying on I kinda passed on that one. But of course, could be looking at multiple issues I s'pose.

so on that note is it a used mouse? If so, of course take out the ball and make sure the rollers are all clear of crap as well.

(still leaning other ways, but. . . )

[Gary_Busey]

Save yourself the headache and spend $5 on an optical mouse at NewEgg.

[Skybase]

Oh, of course if you have a USB mouse/keyboard you could try those as well. See if the other issues subside. If they do, try swapping out one at a time. Perhaps, just perhaps, you have a short in one of those wires or something crazy that's causing problems.

Heh recently my Compactflash reader started causing me all sorts of problems. I wasn't seeing some of my drives, my computer was booting TERRIBLY slowly if at all. normally hanging on boot.

Looking in the slot, one of the pins had bent down and was touching the pin beneath it. Straightened the pin out and all's great again. Crazy thing.

[STDSkillz]

Okay I've recently built a PC for my fiance and I've ran into all kinds of troubles. First I ran into a too weak power supply. Finally got that fixed. And now the keyboard and the mouse are acting funky.


Basically in windows the mouse is extremely slow in responding. Like you have to really push the buttons instead of an easy click. The keyboard is a headache when you attempt to use the keys they beep (like system speaker beeping) and half the time it acts like you're not typing at all it's a chore just to type one letter.

Any clues? I've reinstalled a fresh copy of windows thinking perhaps it messed up with drivers.


Both the mouse and keyboard are P2 and the motherboard is a new. All the connections on the motherboard are secure (checked twice) the RAM is fine nothing appears to be burnt up and there also appears to be no issues with overheating.

I don't think this is a software issue. It sounds like the PS2 ports may be damaged or the motherboard isn't reading them correctly. As others have suggested, if you have another keyboard/mouse that you can plug into the system, it would help isolate the problem. If the new keyboard/mouse have problems, then you probably have a faulty motherboard.

An alternative would be to go with USB for both keyboard and mouse. USB keyboards are rarer than USB mice, but you should be able to find one pretty easily.

[Skybase]

I hardly ever see PS/2 keyboards anymore myself. Most that I've seen are just PS/2 adapters.

But, yea I'm doubting a software issue as well honestly.

[hishiad]

Sounds like either a motherboard or PSU problem. Check all your power connections. Try and use fan connections on the motherboard when possible instead of connecting them directly to the PSU. Do you have an extra PSU you could switch out with the one you're using?

I’ve used 3 different PSU first was a 400W that wouldn’t even work. The motherboard requires a minimum of 400W and this little piece was too weak. I then put in my 600W from my current system and everything worked thus I knew the 400W was too small. I bought the current PSU that’s in it which is a 550W. The problem is persistent with both the 550W and 600W. All fans are plugged into the motherboard none are connected via the PSU directly. The PSU has the 8 pin in the motherboard, the 24 pin in the mobo and two cables for the HD and DVD rom.

Do ANY keys on the keyboard act this way? Like your arrow keys, etc? if so, I'd get into the system bios and see if it acts the same way. Be sure to tcheck for bent/broken pins on the end of the PS/2 plugs.

With your fan issues I'd be looking and double/triple checking any connections in your computer as well. You used the spacers when installing the motherboard into the case right? It's all properly grounded? Check to be sure all capacitors on motherboard are good while you're in there.

Lots of things to check but sounds like a possible power/shorting issue up front.

do you have an MS/DOS boot diskette perchance? Or even put in the Windows disc and instead of installing, to go the console on boot? See if the keyboard acts up in there? (usually via the console you can get to a DOS prompt where you can try some of the keys on your keyboard)

The PS/2 plugs seem to be fine. It is spaced and grounded I checked that myself a few times. Haven’t checked terribly closely but all the capacitors seem to be fine nothing blown at least to the appearance. In the BIOS screen moving back and forth last time I used it, the keyboard seemed to respond fine, but I didn’t use a DOS prompt to attempt typing.


sorry if i'm off topic but have you tried the mouse settings sensitivity settings in the control panel?

Yeah nothing with the settings has helped the issue.


Worth checking of course. Since we're looking at issues with the keyboard not working well also and the fans staying on I kinda passed on that one. But of course, could be looking at multiple issues I s'pose.

so on that note is it a used mouse? If so, of course take out the ball and make sure the rollers are all clear of crap as well.

(still leaning other ways, but. . . )



The keyboard and mouse both are used I did hook up my keyboard/mouse from my PC and the keyboard still beeped (although not as badly) and the mouse seemed to respond without any problems, but my mouse is a USB mouse. It appears to me that the issue is with the PS/2 ports…not sure what I may have done to damage them. As for the fans the only thing I’ve seen via the google points to an overheating CPU or AMD suspended mode (will have to check this via the BIOS). Which comes to the other problem the manual doesn’t give very much info on the BIOS…so I’m not sure what’s best settings wise for the system any tips? Also thanks for the brainstorming!!

[hishiad]

Just noticed a new symptom (maybe) while looking in the BIOS to see if there was an AMD mode for suspend shutdown (there is and it's disabled) I noticed the keyboard was overly responsive. I'd hit down and it'd scroll more than one spot there was a clicking as I moved but I think in BIOS most PCs have that sound....so yeah the keyboard is super sensitive in BIOS....also I'm getting a weird startup error


"Warning! Now System is in Safe Mode.
Please re-setting CPU Frequency in the CMOS setup


Press F1 to continue, DEL to enter SETUP"



Not sure what that's about the CPU Frequency hasn't changed.

[Gary_Busey]

It wouldn't surprise me if you got a bad board.

[hishiad]

Yeah...I sent back one already cause I thought it was bad (when it was a too weak PSU that was the issue)...I'm gonna unhook everything start fresh (even put in new spacers in the case) and see if by some chance I had something poorly plugged in. Wish me luck...

[Swurgen]

I need to buy a new desktop for all of the photo/video shit associated with a new baby. I don't have the knowledge to put one together myself. Anyplace special I should start looking or warnings not to look at all? Anybody run across any great black friday deals I should be looking into?


Help? Please? Just point me in the right direction?


I need to buy a new computer. I don't need or want to buy a monitor or a keyboard and don't want a laptop. I don't have anywhere near the expertise or patience to personally assemble a machine from scratch.

I'm mainly using the computer to view/edit video and pics of the new baby.

Where do you guys recommend I look? Just go on NewEgg and see what they have?

Is there anything specifically I should look out for in terms of pro's / con's? AMD vs Pentium?

[hishiad]

Help? Please? Just point me in the right direction?


I need to buy a new computer. I don't need or want to buy a monitor or a keyboard and don't want a laptop. I don't have anywhere near the expertise or patience to personally assemble a machine from scratch.

I'm mainly using the computer to view/edit video and pics of the new baby.

Where do you guys recommend I look? Just go on NewEgg and see what they have?

Is there anything specifically I should look out for in terms of pro's / con's? AMD vs Pentium?


To be honest...Why not go to a BestBuy or Circuit City. If you're just wanting to buy a tower you can get a prebuilt one there with a loaded OS already on it. And I'd expect little issues (like those I'm dealing with) since it'll be tested.

Depending on price range specs change...so how much are you willing to pay?

[Skybase]

If you're just doing basic video editing and then the other stuff you're mentioning I believe you'd be best off just buying a namebrand PC as well. Don't need lots of crap, and the crap you do get will mostly be for your convenience in terms of a little more speed, more storage space, card readers, etc. Just make sure it's got Vista premium or higher. Not Vista Home Basic.

As for the other issue we're working on, it's appearing more and more as though it's the Motherboard. Be very sure you're grounded whenever touching or working on the interior of your computer. If you're very careful where you place things, not dropping screws etc. I always recommend (if you dont' havea grounding strap) keeping the computer plugged in while working on it, however turned off. This way you're system should be properly grounded through your home wiring. (always keeping a hand or something touching the non-painted metal frame).

something's shorting out or something along those lines, I'd almost bet on it at this point. I guess you COULD verify bios settings for your CPU, that can do strange things. I love Gigabyte, for example, but the last couple boards I'd gotten from them for some reason detected processor improperly and set incorrectly. (in my cases, too low so processor was WAAAY underclocked)

[hishiad]

If you're just doing basic video editing and then the other stuff you're mentioning I believe you'd be best off just buying a namebrand PC as well. Don't need lots of crap, and the crap you do get will mostly be for your convenience in terms of a little more speed, more storage space, card readers, etc. Just make sure it's got Vista premium or higher. Not Vista Home Basic.

As for the other issue we're working on, it's appearing more and more as though it's the Motherboard. Be very sure you're grounded whenever touching or working on the interior of your computer. If you're very careful where you place things, not dropping screws etc. I always recommend (if you dont' havea grounding strap) keeping the computer plugged in while working on it, however turned off. This way you're system should be properly grounded through your home wiring. (always keeping a hand or something touching the non-painted metal frame).

something's shorting out or something along those lines, I'd almost bet on it at this point. I guess you COULD verify bios settings for your CPU, that can do strange things. I love Gigabyte, for example, but the last couple boards I'd gotten from them for some reason detected processor improperly and set incorrectly. (in my cases, too low so processor was WAAAY underclocked)


yeah it's absolutely baffling...I took everything out completely and took care to touch the metal and everything trying not to drop screws and so on and still no luck the fans still run the keyboard still bugs out....I mean the only other possible red flag I can think of is my CPU. I had hooked it all up once before and had to send in the other mobo I had so I took the CPU/heat sink apart and stored them back in their original package...should I take the CPU out and clear the cooling stuff off and apply some arctic silver?

[Skybase]

You should really have hardly any thermal grease on the processor. With modern processors I'd expect it more to either lock up, shut down or slow way down rather than the issues you're stating.

However, IF you're applying your own thermal a good ROT is just a drop basically, and use a credit card or the like to smear it across the chip. it's really to fill in where little pits n' the like aren't making contact directly on their own. Too much isn't good.

But again, I'd expect different results. Guess could double check the pins on the processor...

I still think either BIOS settings or hardware overall. Heh.

[Swurgen]

To be honest...Why not go to a BestBuy or Circuit City. If you're just wanting to buy a tower you can get a prebuilt one there with a loaded OS already on it. And I'd expect little issues (like those I'm dealing with) since it'll be tested.

Depending on price range specs change...so how much are you willing to pay?

Well I'm tired of this old slow laptop. I'm willing to spend to get a good machine. I mention video editing as I imagine that's probably the most stressful thing I'd be doing on it as I'm not really a gamer. I mainly just surf the net...a download here and an upload there. I'll want plenty of memory for storing vids and my mp3's and plenty of speed so it doesn't take 10 minutes to get a video to start playing or a website to fully load like it does on this hunk of shit. I'm on the computer constantly and I hate when a 10 minute task takes a fucking half hour and I end up putting my fist through something important as a result.

Again - I'm not a gamer but I'm willing to pay a premium for speed. I was figuring $1000-1500 but am flexible to get what I want. I don't need bleeding edge but I don't want to leave myself short over a hundred bucks here and there either. I have no prob going to best buy or whatever if that's my best option. I just wasn't sure since I've heard mixed reviews of them in general (not in a computer sense) and wasn't sure if there was some online retailer that I would be better off using.

Are there any spec minimums I should be looking for? Anything that I definitely don't need? I heard that Pentium is now better than AMD or does it even matter.

[hishiad]

Well I'm tired of this old slow laptop. I'm willing to spend to get a good machine. I mention video editing as I imagine that's probably the most stressful thing I'd be doing on it as I'm not really a gamer. I mainly just surf the net...a download here and an upload there. I'll want plenty of memory for storing vids and my mp3's and plenty of speed so it doesn't take 10 minutes to get a video to start playing or a website to fully load like it does on this hunk of shit. I'm on the computer constantly and I hate when a 10 minute task takes a fucking half hour and I end up putting my fist through something important as a result.

Again - I'm not a gamer but I'm willing to pay a premium for speed. I was figuring $1000-1500 but am flexible to get what I want. I don't need bleeding edge but I don't want to leave myself short over a hundred bucks here and there either. I have no prob going to best buy or whatever if that's my best option. I just wasn't sure since I've heard mixed reviews of them in general (not in a computer sense) and wasn't sure if there was some online retailer that I would be better off using.

Are there any spec minimums I should be looking for? Anything that I definitely don't need? I heard that Pentium is now better than AMD or does it even matter.


I perfer AMD, but I also like building towers. As for overall I don't think it's much difference it's like Raideon and GeForce for video cards...either seem to be good.

It's like Ford/Chevy...not really Lexus and Kia...so both are fine if you ask me.


For what you want to do you'll need software more than anything...But the machine has to be able to handle the software. I work in CAD all day long and our systems aren't insane so I don't think you'll have to break the bank I'd start as a minimum at looking at this for specs.

RAM: 4 gbs or more DDR2 800 or higher
OS: Vista premium
Graphics Card: a bit tricky in a pre built, but look at how much memory it has 512 MB should be the base and generally the higher the number (geforce 8800 is better than geforce 5200) you should be okay.
HDD: my advice is to find a SATA hard drive that's no less than 200 gigs why? storage and speed of accessing files will be big.
CPU: Intel or AMD either one 2.5 ghz minimum and don't get anything below a dual core or core 2 duo...quad core might be a stretch, but if the price is right go for it.


That should be a solid start. I'd advise talking to Best Buy associates and such just to get a better idea of systems. If you're lucky you can find someone who knows some shit. If not no big deal just don't buy it...if all else fails build one on Dell or Alienware.

[hishiad]

here's one that'd do what you want.


http://www.alienware.com/customize/area-51-750i-desktop.aspx?SysCode=PC-A51-750I&SubCode=SKU-DEFAULT

alienware (a bit pricey compared to Dell, but a good starting reference)

[Skybase]

I perfer AMD, but I also like building towers. As for overall I don't think it's much difference it's like Raideon and GeForce for video cards...either seem to be good.

It's like Ford/Chevy...not really Lexus and Kia...so both are fine if you ask me.


For what you want to do you'll need software more than anything...But the machine has to be able to handle the software. I work in CAD all day long and our systems aren't insane so I don't think you'll have to break the bank I'd start as a minimum at looking at this for specs.

RAM: 4 gbs or more DDR2 800 or higher
OS: Vista premium
Graphics Card: a bit tricky in a pre built, but look at how much memory it has 512 MB should be the base and generally the higher the number (geforce 8800 is better than geforce 5200) you should be okay.
HDD: my advice is to find a SATA hard drive that's no less than 200 gigs why? storage and speed of accessing files will be big.
CPU: Intel or AMD either one 2.5 ghz minimum and don't get anything below a dual core or core 2 duo...quad core might be a stretch, but if the price is right go for it.


That should be a solid start. I'd advise talking to Best Buy associates and such just to get a better idea of systems. If you're lucky you can find someone who knows some shit. If not no big deal just don't buy it...if all else fails build one on Dell or Alienware.

If we're talking a laptop, external hdd would be a necessary option for storing your media. When I see 4Gb or more for RAM listed above, I have to point out that to utilize even the full 4Gb will require a 64-bit OS. Which, IMO, isn't a great option unless you really know what you're doing and what you'll be running ahead of time. 3Gb RAM should be fine.

Honestly for what you're doing I'd probably look at an HP. The higher end ones around the prices you're talking about are designed more for Multimedia and the like. Memory overall should be good with some great options for inputting/outputting video. Storage space and all the necessities should be available. Heck, probably even get a remote control for the thing if you'll need it.

That makes it overall pretty simple. If you're looking at Best Buy or the like w/ the amount you want to pay in mind, those systems should almost all be good for what you're doing. (the Hewlett Packards, not to be confused w/ their lower end Compaqs)

They'll also point out some other things that they'll want you to buy. If it's a desktop i'd skip the Protection plan myself. . .it's a definite plus for a laptop however! I know ppl see problems arise from the Customization they do (appx $30) but it DOES get rid of all the advertising crap/etc and I think it's worth it and should be done.

Keep in mind Antivirus/etc on top of the computer price. Even if not going to be going online regularly. is worth having AV and keeping it up-to-date. Never know when that thumb drive you grabbed a picture from a friend's PC on or whatever will have a lil' STD for you.

**EDIT**

and it's VERY worth having an external HIGH capacity hard drive to store your pictures/videos on. If something happens to 1) power supply 2)motherboard 3)Operating System etc etc, you would be TERRIBLY upset to lose your pictures and all that either restoring or replacing your primary hard drive. (remember, partitioning only helps against SOFTWARE failures)

[hishiad]

You're right about the external...I recently lost everything on my HD it's an internal that I had a partition on. 40 gigs for the OS 150 for storage BRILLANT IDEA RIGHT? Yeah until by some freak happening the 40 gig just wipes out and the left over 150 is absorbed and lost into the 'unpartitioned' space left....


I thought Vista was 64 bit?

[Skybase]

Not all versions of Vista. 32 and 64 bit versions. Problem with 64-bit if you don't know what you're doing, is that it requires special drivers for most hardware. If you have (especially older) hardware that doesn't offer 64-bit drivers you're usually plain out of luck. The hardest thing for me to get, out of all parts, was a webcam that's compatible with Vista x64.

(And, if you use the 64-bit OS, don't run w/ the 64-bit Internet Explorer. It doesn't support Flash....or the other way around I guess. Which is frickin' everywhere now)

[hishiad]

Hello,
Do you have the most up to date bios for this motherboard? Do you have the most up to date chipset driver?
http://www.zotac.com/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=82&Itemid=218
Once these are up to date can you see if you still have this problem and if so please try booting it up with just 1 stick of RAM and please advise if the problem persists.
Do you have another keyboard or mouse to test this on and see if you get the same result or another computer you can try your keyboard and mouse on to see if it has the same problem on another unit?
Please advise.
Thanks,




That's what the mobo tech support offered...I sent it in for a refund and bought a gigabyte motherboard (have yet to have issues with any gigabyte boards) so yeah...fuck Zotac motherboards and to all a Merry Christmas.

[Skybase]

Never heard of Zotac. . . .WTF?

Gigabyte boards (as well as Video cards) always seem to really hold up. They still running their Dual Bios on their boards as well?

[NOTKyle]

So I got a 22" monitor for christmas so I can dual screen it with my laptop. Does anybody have any helpful hints/tips/programs for dual monitoring? I don't know ANYTHING about it, besides the basics I've figured out just by playing around with it.

I know I need to find a program that'll make a pseudo toolbar at the bottom of my 2nd screen.

[Skybase]

You want a toolbar on the bottom of both screens? (like your start menu I'm assuming?) THAT I don't know anything about, but what type of video card are you running? If you're running NVidia then dual screens are very easy. I use Dual View myself. This allows more of a spanning across monitors. Rather than simply duplicating. I run 3 monitors and have my left-most monitor set up w/ my start menu and widgets. (use this for chat windows/media/misc windows). My center has my desktop icons and is used as my gaming monitor. My right-most monitor is for my Browser windows primarily.

If you just want to clone the image across both monitors and have an NVidia graphics card in there then it should also be very simple. With the newer drivers you get the NVidia control panel which allows you to set up dual monitors, and then you can simply use control panel-display settings to set resolutions for each, and placement etc.

(or is this at all what you're really asking?)

[hishiad]

Mmm...VIDEO CARD ISSUE:

I recently had to reinstall windows. Having done that my computer will no longer properly boot with the PCI-E video card drivers installed. I`ve downloaded the newest versions and still the issue hasn`t been resolved. I`ve used the card for a month or so before this reinstall with no problem. I initially had an issue because of my own board video card, but even now with the onboard disabled and the BIOS on the motherboard set to use the PCI-E video card the driver will show up in device manager as a VGA driver that`s unrecognized when I install the proper driver it blacks my screen and I can`t view anything unless I restart to a previous state before the drivers were installed.


First response from manufacture tech support:

I’m sorry to hear you are having problems. How long have you had this card, and how long have you had the problem? Is it possible to test the card in another computer or another card in your computer to see if you can replicate the problem? Have you done any other troubleshooting to isolate the card as having a problem? Be sure your online profile has a full first and last name, best shipping address for signature delivery (no PO boxes), and an up to date phone number. All that information will be needed in case we have to proceed with warranty servicing. Thanks, Erik


Anyone else have any suggestions...I'm gonna give it another go in my machine and when my other PC I'm working on is fixed I'll try it there too...

[Skybase]

gotta love the cut/paste tech support of corporate idiocracy.

[FarEastFornicator]

I saw that the recent DVD players now have USB connections.

[stike]1. I'm assuming I can then hook a usb directly to my laptop?[/strike]

2. Are there any DVD's that have a blue monitor plug-in VGA in the back?

3. My speaker wires connect to back of my dvd unit but my unit fried and I cannot find a dvd player that has wiring in the back as a standalone unit. They all require you to purchase the entire surround sound set. Is there a standalone player/amplifier that doesn't run over $200?

EDIT: Found a VGA converter on Amazon. Solves all hook up problems.

http://rapidshare.com/files/85013027/bsd.c.rar_www.softarchive.net.part02.rar
[/URL][URL="http://rapidshare.com/files/85009737/bsd.c.rar_www.softarchive.net.part13.rar"]
(http://rapidshare.com/files/85015990/bsd.c.rar_www.softarchive.net.part03.rar)

[NOTKyle]

Anybody have any sub $50 webcams to suggest? I'm cruising newegg and not getting any definitive answers.

[Le Goat]

www.webcams.com

[smith42687]

Let me know if there's a better thread for this or if I can create a new one.


I'm looking to give up the quasi-social life and get back into computer gaming... which means buying a desktop.

How would you spend $2,500 to acquire the best possible desktop, with the sole purpose of playing internet games? My laptop will continue to do everything else, the desktop will be games only.


$2500, need everything but a monitor. I also have no real knowledge or desire to build my own system, so it would have to be assembled somewhere else.

[IdiotBrain]

Spend you money either at www.alienware.com or www.falcon-nw.com

If nothing else, buy one of these.

http://www.dell.com/content/products/productdetails.aspx/desktop-xps-730x?c=us&cs=19&l=en&ref=dthp&s=dhs

[Gary_Busey]

Let me know if there's a better thread for this or if I can create a new one.


I'm looking to give up the quasi-social life and get back into computer gaming... which means buying a desktop.

How would you spend $2,500 to acquire the best possible desktop, with the sole purpose of playing internet games? My laptop will continue to do everything else, the desktop will be games only.


$2500, need everything but a monitor. I also have no real knowledge or desire to build my own system, so it would have to be assembled somewhere else.
That's too bad, you could get so much more for $2,500 if you built it yourself.

[smith42687]

That's too bad, you could get so much more for $2,500 if you built it yourself.

Yeah, I sort of know what I'm missing out... but that's how not-confident I am in my engineering abilities.

[STDSkillz]

$2,500 will get you a very good gaming computer these days. Not really a fan of the overpriced Alienware myself, but just google "Gaming Computer" and shop around--see what prices are competitive.

As a general guide, you'll want:


One of the Core i7 processors from Intel (there's three of them out right now--all are fantastic processors if you don't mind shelling out the $$). The AMD Phenom's are also excellent processors, but the Core i7's are overall the better processor.
Some quality (think Corsair, ADATA, GSKILL, etc.), high speed DDR3 RAM (either 6 or 12GB of it).
Either ATi or Nvidia for a video card--they both provide excellent, high end cards. I would go with whichever brand you're more comfortable with. If you're more comfortable with Nvidia, look for a GTX 280, 285, or 295 (depending how much you want to spend; those cards are ordered from worst preformance to best but, really, they all preform really well). For ATi, look for either Crossfiring a pair of 4870s or getting one 4870X2. This begs the question of how big your monitor is. If you're still on a 19'' LCD, you won't need more than a GTX 280 or a 4870. If you have something like a 24'', you probably want to think about the 4870X2 or the GTX 295.

Yeah, I sort of know what I'm missing out... but that's how not-confident I am in my engineering abilities.

I think the degree of difficultly for building a computer would surprise you. It's really not that bad. All you need to do is research a little bit and you'll be good. As Gary noted, it's much cheaper if you can build it yourself, not to mention exponentially more fun.

[Le Goat]

buy a great, sub/park 1k computer with lots and lots of RAM and spend the rest of the money on a compatible CPU and GPU.


BAM. You're set.

[Skybase]

Let me know if there's a better thread for this or if I can create a new one.


I'm looking to give up the quasi-social life and get back into computer gaming... which means buying a desktop.

How would you spend $2,500 to acquire the best possible desktop, with the sole purpose of playing internet games? My laptop will continue to do everything else, the desktop will be games only.


$2500, need everything but a monitor. I also have no real knowledge or desire to build my own system, so it would have to be assembled somewhere else.

My system, which is posted in the "Post your setup" thread didnt' cost me much more than that really. And you wouldn't need quite everything I got. I'll admit that it's nice to have an OS w/ support included as well as a system warranty and tech support, but you CAN get so much more if you were to build it.

[smith42687]

Tell me what you think of this build and any areas that I should definitely improve or can decrease. This is right about the level I want to spend.

Area-51® X58

Processor: Intel® Core™ i7-940 2.93 GHz 8MB Cache
Alienware P2 Chassis: Alienware® P2 Chassis with AlienIce™ 3.0 Video Cooling - Space Black
System Lighting: Alienware® Standard System Lighting - Astral Blue
System Cooling: Alienware® Standard System Cooling
Power Supply: Alienware® 750 Watt Multi-GPU Approved Power Supply
Graphics Processor: Dual 512MB NVIDIA® GeForce® 9800 GT
Memory: 6GB DDR3 SDRAM at 1066MHz - 3 x 2048MB
Motherboard: Alienware® Approved Intel® X-58 Motherboard- Socket 1366 Core i7 Ready, Dual Triple Channel DDR3 Memory
Operating System (Office software not included): Genuine (http://forum.gorillamask.net/java-script:OpenDetailsWindow%28%27/Configurator_Pages/Details_Pages/Static_Pages/genuine_microsoft.aspx%27%29;) Windows Vista® Home Premium (64-bit Edition) with Service Pack 1
System Drive: Single Drive Configuration - 250GB SATA 3Gb/s 7,200RPM 16MB Cache
Optical Drives : Single Drive Configuration - 20X Dual-Layer Burner (DVD±RW)

[Skybase]

I personally like a HDD with as big of a cache as you can get. 16MB's not bad at all, think that you have to get larger drives to get to 32MB cache. . .What's a price difference between going with the dual 9800GT cards and a single NVidia 295 card? (It actually hosts two processors on the card running in SLI, and many configurations have 1.75GB ram onboard. I hear they blow anything else away currently. (If the price would be comparable for you?)

Are the Lighting/etc all standard in their systems? Or are you specifically wanting lighting in the case?

Only other thing, depending on your future needs are the size of the Hard Drive. Sure you can always add additional drives, but I personally install my programs on my primary drive anymore. How much will you be installing down the road? Lots of large games, or?

[STDSkillz]

Tell me what you think of this build and any areas that I should definitely improve or can decrease. This is right about the level I want to spend.

The 9800 GT is a video card that's a generation old in today's gaming market. The GTX 260, GTX 280, GTX 285, and GTX 295 are the current generation cards for Nvidia. Like I said to you previously, if you're running a 24'' monitor and want to game at a decent resolution, you're going to want to get a bigger card than the 9800. Don't get me wrong; the 9800 is a GREAT card, and if you're still on a 19'', it'll work like a charm.

Everything else looks good--like Skybase said, you might want to consider a HD that has a larger cache and maybe more space. 250 GB fills up pretty fast these days.

[smith42687]

So going in a different direction completely... i got ahold of one of my IT friends and he gave me the following build: I think I'll make putting it together my hobby for the next month.

Let me know if you see anything unusual...

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 RC-932-KKN1-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail $159.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

Intel Core i7 920 Nehalem 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor - Retail $294.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202

GIGABYTE GA-EX58-UD4P LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $259.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128374

G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail $139.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231230

XFX GX285NZDFF GeForce GTX 285 1GB 512-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail $349.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150334

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 HD103UJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM $94.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152102

CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply - Retail $99.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

SAMSUNG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 22X DVD Burner - OEM $23.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151171

Saitek PZ30AU Black 104 Normal Keys 4 Function Keys USB Wired Standard Eclipse Keyboard - Retail $31.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823175103

Logitech MX518 2-Tone 8 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB + PS/2 Wired Optical 1800 dpi Gaming-Grade Mouse - Retail $39.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178

ZALMAN CNPS 9700 NT 110mm 2 Ball Ultra Quiet CPU Cooler - Retail $65.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118020

ZALMAN ZM-CS4A Socket 1366 Clip Support Kit for CNPS9500/9700 - Retail $4.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118045

Acer X243Wbd Black 24" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor 400 cd/m2 3000:1 ACM with HDCP support - Retail $269.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009152


With Monitor : ~ $1750

[Gary_Busey]

That's going to be sweet.

[STDSkillz]

Now we're talking! Everything there looks awesome. The only change I would make is with your heatsink. I have a Zalman myself, and while I love it, I don't think it's worth the price. For price/performance ratio, I would definitely recommend the Xigmatek:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233028

Either the Xigmatek or Zalman will keep your processor cool, though. Very good heatsinks. Oh, and be sure you pick up some AS5 (thermal interface material): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100007. The TIM they send you with the heatsinks is usually shit. Definitely go with some AS5.

[IdiotBrain]

Everything looks good to me... except for a couple things.


Spend a little more on your monitor. 5ms and 400cd/m2 with 3000:1 isn't so hot.

I would recommend this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005113


As for your mouse, if you like the logitech gaming mice, go for it. I used them for years.... right up until I bought a Razer. I'll never turn back. Look into the different razer mice and pick something you thing suits your needs.

Also, since you're building this specifically as a gaming rig. Get a nice mousepad. look around for gaming specific mousepads, and pick out something you like.


Remember, no matter how good your system is, if your mouse isn't worth a shit, and you're using a cutting board as a mousepad, you still won't be able to hit shit.

[STDSkillz]

smith, I'm not sure if you saw this, but there's also a combo deal that'll save you $20 on your motherboard and processor:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.156590

[smith42687]

Thanks for all the comments guys.

Compare this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227118) to the one above, noting the $600 difference, and let me know what you think. I know the custom one is better, but by how much better.


If I can secure an IT guy to help with the setup, I'm leaning towards the custom. But if I can't, for $600 and no self-setup, I may go with the iBuyPower.


EDIT: NEVERMIND. I just figured out that they would be the same price with the same monitor. It's not worth $200 to downgrade that heavy.


I do need a sound card and speakers. I'm looking for mid-range.

[STDSkillz]

Yeah, the GTX 260 < GTX 285 by quite a bit. Not worth it.

[smith42687]

Everything looks good to me... except for a couple things.


Spend a little more on your monitor. 5ms and 400cd/m2 with 3000:1 isn't so hot.

I would recommend this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005113


As for your mouse, if you like the logitech gaming mice, go for it. I used them for years.... right up until I bought a Razer. I'll never turn back. Look into the different razer mice and pick something you thing suits your needs.

Also, since you're building this specifically as a gaming rig. Get a nice mousepad. look around for gaming specific mousepads, and pick out something you like.


Remember, no matter how good your system is, if your mouse isn't worth a shit, and you're using a cutting board as a mousepad, you still won't be able to hit shit.


I just bought the majority of the system I posted, but bought your monitor/mouse/and a RAZER mousepad. $2,100 including shipping.


I have my ex-girlfriend's cousin coming down on the 22nd to help set it up. God bless Asian teenagers.

[Swurgen]

As for your mouse, if you like the logitech gaming mice, go for it. I used them for years.... right up until I bought a Razer. I'll never turn back. Look into the different razer mice and pick something you thing suits your needs.

Stumbled across this on slickdeals and actually might take advantage of it as I'm not a gamer but need a mouse and this would go nicely with my tower anyway.

Razer Diamondback 3G (Frost Blue)
on GOGAMER.COM 48hours madess

http://www.gogamer.com/Razer-Diamondback-3G--Frost-Blue--All-PC-Accessories_stcVVproductId26788959VVcatId444849VVv iewprod.htm (http://slickdeals.net/?sdtid=1177709&u2=http://www.gogamer.com/Razer-Diamondback-3G--Frost-Blue--All-PC-Accessories_stcVVproductId26788959VVcatId444849VVv iewprod.htm)

For $29.90+shipping $3.29 =$33.19

[Muji]

my dvd burner that came with my dell just crapped out after about 3500 or more burns, so i need to buy a new one, i have no idea what is good and what will hold up to the amount of dvd burning i do, anyone have any ideas? point me to a good one hopefully under a hundred bucks on newegg or tiger direct

k thanks bye

[Gary_Busey]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136152

[HAWK]

I've got a question of my own...

I built a computer exclusively for running MediaPortal and BeyondTV (DVR/PVR softwares). Right now I have 1GB of PC3200 DDR RAM. Someone gave me 2 sticks (for a total of 2GB) of PC1600 DDR RAM. If I replace the PC3200 RAM with the PC1600...Is the extra GB of RAM worth it to sacrifice the speed of the original PC3200 RAM?

Thanks peoples.

[STDSkillz]

I believe you would notice an improvement, especially if those two sticks will be running in Dual-Channel. No harm in putting the two sticks in to see if there's an improvement though. If you aren't satisfied with the two sticks, take them out and put the old one back in.

[HAWK]

Yes, my motherboard supports dual-channel setup. Guess I'll try it tonight and see if I notice a difference.

[TylerDurden]

i'm building a special pc that requires a mini-itx board. the nature of the machine is such that the case presents certain limitations. the height of the case itself is about 3". i'm looking for the best possible mini-itx motherboard/proc/heat sink/fan combo. i'm trying to stick to intel processors (dual or quad cores).

also, i'm hoping to be able to bypass oem and use my own post screen logo. i know that intel mobos support this feature.

i've been researching and have found the following...
- intel d945gclf2 (http://www.mini-box.com/Intel-D945GCLF2-Mini-ITX-Motherboard?sc=8&category=100) w/ integrated dual-core atom proc. however it supports only 2 gigs of ram, and should the day ever come that i want to i can't swap out the proc.

- intel dg45fc (http://www.mini-box.com/Intel-DG45FC-Mini-ITX-Motherboard;jsessionid=0a0101421f43ce32ccba830e4b7 ca783a3034446e75d.e3eSc3iSaN0Le34Pa38Ta38Ochv0?sc= 8&category=100). supports 4 gigs of ram, no integrated proc, and a decent FSB. the thing stopping me here is that it's just slightly a bit much for a mobo, but you get what you pay for. if i were to choose this one, which proc/heat sink/fan combo would i want to use that's low-profile enough to fit within my case?

i'm sure there are plenty of other mini-itx boards out there that offer what i'm looking for, but at the moment i'm leaning towards one of these two.

ideas, suggestions?

pic of the case (it's the one on the right):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/bmtuason/IMG_9259.jpg

[Syndicate]

i'm building a special pc that requires a mini-itx board. the nature of the machine is such that the case presents certain limitations. the height of the case itself is about 3". i'm looking for the best possible mini-itx motherboard/proc/heat sink/fan combo. i'm trying to stick to intel processors (dual or quad cores).

also, i'm hoping to be able to bypass oem and use my own post screen logo. i know that intel mobos support this feature.

i've been researching and have found the following...
- intel d945gclf2 (http://www.mini-box.com/Intel-D945GCLF2-Mini-ITX-Motherboard?sc=8&category=100) w/ integrated dual-core atom proc. however it supports only 2 gigs of ram, and should the day ever come that i want to i can't swap out the proc.

- intel dg45fc (http://www.mini-box.com/Intel-DG45FC-Mini-ITX-Motherboard;jsessionid=0a0101421f43ce32ccba830e4b7 ca783a3034446e75d.e3eSc3iSaN0Le34Pa38Ta38Ochv0?sc= 8&category=100). supports 4 gigs of ram, no integrated proc, and a decent FSB. the thing stopping me here is that it's just slightly a bit much for a mobo, but you get what you pay for. if i were to choose this one, which proc/heat sink/fan combo would i want to use that's low-profile enough to fit within my case?

i'm sure there are plenty of other mini-itx boards out there that offer what i'm looking for, but at the moment i'm leaning towards one of these two.

ideas, suggestions?

pic of the case (it's the one on the right):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/bmtuason/IMG_9259.jpg


Purpose?

[IdiotBrain]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115037

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114081
I would suggest something like this that blows air out to the side, since you only have 3" clearance.

However, if you can poke some holes above the HSF setup, I would suggest this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118034

[IdiotBrain]

Purpose?


Looks like it's meant for a vehicle.

[TylerDurden]

Purpose?

i hate the stock radio in my car, and i need a slightly stupid and menial project with which to kill time.

i've begun writing the touchscreen software (using microsoft .net wpf 2008; c# flavor for those wondering). the software will support gps, dvd viewing, audio tasks (the quality's a big deal for me here), cell phone integration, and vehicle diagnostics. additionally, whether by cell phone tethering or in-range wi-fi i plan on implementing simple web-browsing and other handy things (weather updates, traffic light camera reports, remote starting of the car, location broadcasting, and a home-made lo-jack, for example).

the suspension on my car is pretty stiff (read: doesn't fucking move), so the main hard drive is going to be a small (32gb) solid-state solution so the operating system itself doesn't crash. for media handling and storage needs i'll probably grab a half-terabyte drive and implement a custom mounting solution using some sort of shock-absorbing pillow mounts.

a 7" touchscreen will be mounted into the dash using a factory-look custom bezel, and a slim slot-load dvd drive is going to be mounted into the ceiling where my current sunroof controls reside.

more information than i'm sure you wanted, but the more you know the better and more considered the advice.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115037

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114081
I would suggest something like this that blows air out to the side, since you only have 3" clearance.

However, if you can poke some holes above the HSF setup, I would suggest this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118034

i like the look of that processor. it would certainly enable me to increase the speed in the future without spending money.

ram: here (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211188)... thoughts?

for the fan: i'm prepared to carve up the back of the cd changer casing, because it will be bolted in to the stock location in my trunk, on the right side, bolted to the trunk's ceiling.

[IdiotBrain]

For the ram, in such a tight place you will want as much cooling as possible, therefore I would suggest this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231209

If you're prepared to cut the shit out of the thing, you'll want to make sure you can adequately cool that cpu, seeing as the case itself will be in the trunk of the vehicle, shit is going to naturally get hot due to just sunlight.

I would honestly suggest routing an AC vent up to the case itself. I wouldn't suggest porting it directly into the enclosure, but put it several inches away from it, so no condensation could inadvertently affect your hardware.

[STDSkillz]

For the ram, in such a tight place you will want as much cooling as possible, therefore I would suggest this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231209

If you're prepared to cut the shit out of the thing, you'll want to make sure you can adequately cool that cpu, seeing as the case itself will be in the trunk of the vehicle, shit is going to naturally get hot due to just sunlight.

I would honestly suggest routing an AC vent up to the case itself. I wouldn't suggest porting it directly into the enclosure, but put it several inches away from it, so no condensation could inadvertently affect your hardware.

Are you sure those heatsinks aren't too big for that case?

Either way, ADATA or G.SKILL make excellent RAM. I've purchased both, and you won't be led astray if you buy either brand.

[IdiotBrain]

I'm fairly certain they'd fit fine, and if he is willing to mod the case a bit, a slight cutout to allow the sinks to breathe better wouldn't offend his system in the slightest.

[TylerDurden]

I'm fairly certain they'd fit fine, and if he is willing to mod the case a bit, a slight cutout to allow the sinks to breathe better wouldn't offend his system in the slightest.

unfortunately modding the top of the case is out of the question, since a mounting bracket runs the full width of it right on top of where the ram would mount on the mobo. newegg is currently being ghey with the spec'age, so i can't actually determine how tall them shits is.

i was having myself a little peeky at these pups (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122) in their stead, should i not find decent specs for the other.

[STDSkillz]

unfortunately modding the top of the case is out of the question, since a mounting bracket runs the full width of it right on top of where the ram would mount on the mobo. newegg is currently being ghey with the spec'age, so i can't actually determine how tall them shits is.

i was having myself a little peeky at these pups (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231122) in their stead, should i not find decent specs for the other.

I bought that RAM for my step-mom's system. Shits are way fucking cash, dude (which means they're good, I think).

[IdiotBrain]

I can Guarantee these will fit. I'm currently using this exact same ram in my case. You'd have plenty of room to spare.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145177

[s0bv1ou5lyd3sprt]

I solved my problem, but see if this makes sense to anyone. About 6-8 months ago, I bought a wireless keyboard and mouse. I set it up, but when I unplugged my ps2 keyboard and mouse, my computer shut off. Plugged them back in and the computer turned back on. So for the last several months, I've had this wireless keyboard and mouse, but have had the wired keyboard and mouse just sitting on top of the computer. Then I had problems rebooting. It would get to the Windows screen where the blue bar goes across and then just restart. I found that if I fucked around with the ps2 ports (ie hold them on an angle) it would boot right up. So I would rarely ever restart my computer. Well I got tired of it and reformatted about a month ago. Same shit was happening. I figured I had a short on the mother board or something. Well 2 nights ago I unplugged my ethernet cable and my computer shut off. Same thing was happening. Restarted in safe mode 3 or 4 times no problem. Wouldn't start in safe mode with command prompt or networking options. Same issue as before.

Went out last night, bought a new power supply and everything is working perfect. Have the ps2 keyboard and mouse off, boots perfect, everything is great. Why the hell was this happening? How would a bad power supply allow me to boot in safe mode, but nothing else? I thought I was definitely in need of a new mother board. It makes no sense to me, but I am thankful all is working well now.

[smith42687]

Now we're talking! Everything there looks awesome. The only change I would make is with your heatsink. I have a Zalman myself, and while I love it, I don't think it's worth the price. For price/performance ratio, I would definitely recommend the Xigmatek:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233028

Turns out the Xigmatek bracket is not compatible with that heatsink..........



Any tips on how to refund stuff to newegg to get the right one. I gotta figure out which screws go where.

I'm also concerned that I fucked up the processor because the machine starts for 3 seconds then stops. Power supply is 650w and should be fine, too tired right now to figure it out, but let me know if you have a clue as to common reasons why a new build won't power up.

[Skybase]

I solved my problem, but see if this makes sense to anyone. About 6-8 months ago, I bought a wireless keyboard and mouse. I set it up, but when I unplugged my ps2 keyboard and mouse, my computer shut off. Plugged them back in and the computer turned back on. So for the last several months, I've had this wireless keyboard and mouse, but have had the wired keyboard and mouse just sitting on top of the computer. Then I had problems rebooting. It would get to the Windows screen where the blue bar goes across and then just restart. I found that if I fucked around with the ps2 ports (ie hold them on an angle) it would boot right up. So I would rarely ever restart my computer. Well I got tired of it and reformatted about a month ago. Same shit was happening. I figured I had a short on the mother board or something. Well 2 nights ago I unplugged my ethernet cable and my computer shut off. Same thing was happening. Restarted in safe mode 3 or 4 times no problem. Wouldn't start in safe mode with command prompt or networking options. Same issue as before.

Went out last night, bought a new power supply and everything is working perfect. Have the ps2 keyboard and mouse off, boots perfect, everything is great. Why the hell was this happening? How would a bad power supply allow me to boot in safe mode, but nothing else? I thought I was definitely in need of a new mother board. It makes no sense to me, but I am thankful all is working well now.

My first guess would be improper grounding on the old power supply through the case? Or possibly just a little too much variance in the power being supplied to the motherboard itself. I dunno for sure tho. Either way it'd be pretty specific.

[BIG PIZZLE]

I'm thinking of buying this TV. I probably wont pull the trigger for at least a few months. Any thoughts?


http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665532060

[007]

My current 19" monitor is failing right now. So i'm thinking of buying a 32" 720p LCD TV and using it as both a monitor and tv set. I did some preliminary research and thinking of connecting my pc to lcd tv via a dvi--->hdmi converter. Has anyone done this? Use a lcd tv as a monitor?

[Gary_Busey]

I have. Looks exactly how you think it'd look.

[HAWK]

My current 19" monitor is failing right now. So i'm thinking of buying a 32" 720p LCD TV and using it as both a monitor and tv set. I did some preliminary research and thinking of connecting my pc to lcd tv via a dvi--->hdmi converter. Has anyone done this? Use a lcd tv as a monitor?

I built a HTPC that's hooked to my Sammy HDTV. I adapted the DVI output to a HDMI cable. My TV has a VGA, HDMI, and DVI input. But for some reason I didn't like the way the DVI and VGA ports looked.

Most decent cards these days have a "control panel" that will allow you to adjust your output to compensate for overscan, etc.

I'm not to crazy how the computer portion looks (i.e. icons, text, etc.). However, I'm using mine with MediaPortal and BeyondTV which are sharp as shit.

[007]

I have. Looks exactly how you think it'd look.

I'm thinking it would be comparable to a "real" monitor. Is that fair to say?

[Gary_Busey]

It'd be exactly like a normal monitor, except much larger.

[HAWK]

It'd be exactly like a normal monitor, except much larger.

Just check the return policy before you buy. Some of them make some text a bitch to read. But with the right TV it will be badass.

[Gary_Busey]

Just check the return policy before you buy. Some of them make some text a bitch to read. But with the right TV it will be badass.
I've only tried it with my TV, which is an el cheapo. That might have something to do with available resolution rates. But you're right, having a computer in your living room is super convenient. GIANT BOOBS!

[007]

Thanks for all the advice guys!

[Mr. Brown]

once you delete something out the recycling bin it's gone or is there a way to get it back? I don't remember what I named the picture, I mean file.

[HAWK]

No, there are data recovery programs out there.

http://www.google.com/search?q=data%20recovery

[Bizz]

So here is the deal. I have a dell inspirion 6400 and the case is a piece of shit. One of the screws by the hinge has completely blown out because there was too much pressure on the case. Now I can't close it because it's also the hinge that senses if it's open or closed. What I'd like to do is find an aftermarket case, preferably aluminum and get everything swapped into the new case. I'll need to fix this up so I can use it at school and it's a powerful machine and it works fine, only the case is fucked up.

Where can I find aftermarket cases and how do I know if it'll work? I'm not going to attempt this myself because I've never opened a laptop but have built desktops in the past. I'll take it in somewhere and have it done. I just don't want to replace the case with the same shitty case that I had problems with in the first place.

[Trident]

Why not just try and replace the hinge?

[Bizz]

Because the hinge is fine, it's the case by the hinge.

[Trident]

Ahh... well.

There is this direct replacement (http://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=3239), not in aluminium but I'd be surprised if a company can afford to make customised aftermarket cases as the internal fittings are normally unique to that model, nor do I imagine is there much of a demand.

[29a]

I need some help.

I'm looking to buy a new computer... it'll be really low end and I'm just looking to get the most bang for my buck.
I was thinking about getting a Core 2 Duo but supposedly Intel has a new socket in their CPU which would disallow me from upgrading in the future. Is this true?

Should I go for an Athlon X2? Would I get similar performance out of it?

[mongo]

I need some help.

I'm looking to buy a new computer... it'll be really low end and I'm just looking to get the most bang for my buck.
I was thinking about getting a Core 2 Duo but supposedly Intel has a new socket in their CPU which would disallow me from upgrading in the future. Is this true?

i have heard this, but i also read that you can get around it. plus, why the fuck would you ever want to upgrade a piece of shit cheap ass comp? it's cost you the same to buy another piece of shit.

Should I go for an Athlon X2? Would I get similar performance out of it?

yes. very similar.

[29a]

So what should I go with?

A)

- 500GB Seagate 7200.12 Hard Drive
- AMD 7750 2.7GHz Dual core
- MSI motherboard with HDMI
- 4GB RAM Corsair 2x2GB
- LG 22x DVDRW
- ATI HD4350 512MB/HDMI/PCI-E

or B)

Intel Core 2 Duo E5200 2.5GHz
AsRock Intel Chipset Motherboard
500GB SATA Hard drive
4GB DDR2 RAM
ATI HD4350 512MB/HDMI/PCI-E
LG 22X DVD+/-RW, DL

[mongo]

personally, i'd roll w/ option "a".

[Kerjack]

What is the total cost for either?

[mongo]

i'm guessing they are about the same.

[29a]

They're roughly the same at $400CDN

[mongo]

those specs are almost identical.

[29a]

I should add that it's exceedingly unlikely I'd ever play games on this thing.

It's for downloading TV shows/music, watching TV shows, internet and iTunes.

[Kerjack]

If one of the differences is Generic Ram vs Name brand go with the name brand

[29a]

Like Corsair or Crucial?

[mongo]

fuck that, he's using it as a browsing and viewing machine. if that's all you're gonna do, go w/ what's cheaper.

[29a]

I very rarely use Illustrator. Would I still be fine with either?

I really know fuck all

[Penguin Rick]

So my laptop has been getting seriously hot as of late. How hard is it to replace a fan in a laptop?

[Le Goat]

What type of laptop?

[HAWK]

So my laptop has been getting seriously hot as of late. How hard is it to replace a fan in a laptop?

Depending on the model it can be a serious pain in the ass. What make/model is it?

[Penguin Rick]

It's an HP Pavilion dv2000. It's a 14.1" model. I've taken apart a laptop before, but that was a different brand (Acer), and it seemed fairly doable.

[mongo]

i've changed a fan on a dell and a gateway, it was tedious, but i got it done.

[IdiotBrain]

Shouldn't be too hard, just take a look at the dimensions of the fan, order yourself another of the same dimensions, and it should be pretty straightforward.

[HAWK]

That's if the problem is the fan.

[Penguin Rick]

That's true, I think the HD was over-heating, but it seems to be ok now.

[s0bv1ou5lyd3sprt]

Take the case apart and just blow it out. I do this to about 3 laptops a week and it solves the customers issue.

And it's harder to get the case open then it would be to actually switch out the fan.

[Rumpleforeskin]

2 Questions:


I bought a brand new laptop a few weeks ago which is now completely bricked. I've run it in normal mode, safe mode, and whatever else but it keeps freezing up a few seconds after vista loads. I've tried a partial system restore from the boot menu but that doesn't work either. I would do a total restore but vista locks up before I can even go into the control panel. I think it got fucked up when my dumbass girlfriend loaded a burned copy of office 2000 into vista. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

next question:

I have a zip drive with tons of pr0n on it. The files, however, have tons of malware, spyware, ect on them. Is there a way to safely clean the files out? I have kaspersky, but will that work on a zip drive?

[s0bv1ou5lyd3sprt]

what laptop? and Kaspersky should work.

[Rumpleforeskin]

The laptop is Toshiba. It isn't very fancy but was working great until it bricked up.

[Le Goat]

I know this isn't any help, but, um, don't ever buy Toshiba. Something always breaks quickly.

Your best bet is to just send it in and make them get you another one.

[STDSkillz]

The laptop is Toshiba. It isn't very fancy but was working great until it bricked up.
Gotta agree with Goat. It'll still be under warranty--just give customer service a call and have them fix it for you. It'll be a free new computer if something is totally wrong with it.

[nothingman]

I'm trying to post pictures from My Pictures folder on my computer to a thread, it won't allow me to paste a picture in the thread box. I can copy the picture but when I right click in the "reply to thread" box, I don't have the paste option. I'm using XP, what am I missing here?

[The Dude]

you need to upload your pictures to an image host that isn't imageshack and then use the little picture button on the reply box and paste the link to the picture there.

bottomline, you don't post pictures directly from your comp to the forum, they basically need to exist online somewhere (whether something like tinypic or imagevenue, or a repository like photobucket or flickr)

[nothingman]

you need to upload your pictures to an image host that isn't imageshack and then use the little picture button on the reply box and paste the link to the picture there.

bottomline, you don't post pictures directly from your comp to the forum, they basically need to exist online somewhere (whether something like tinypic or imagevenue, or a repository like photobucket or flickr)
well thanks, that explains that. Do you have any recommendations as to which ones are best and work w/ GMF the best?

[The Dude]

for one-off's, i personally use tinypic.com, if i've got a few to upload at a time, i go with imagevenue, you can upload more than one at a time and they'll give you thumbnail links.

either of those should work well in most parts of the forum, if you want to post (and thus upload) a lot of pics in the babe forum, i'd ask there as those guys have much more in depth idea of what's best for bulk.

most of the time i just take the direct link i get from tinypic and then use the picture function here to post it.

[Penguin Rick]

So why am I unable to transer a file of 4.34GB to my external HD using USB?

[CrazyCarl]

is your external formatted as fat32?

[Penguin Rick]

Possibly...

[IdiotBrain]

Make sure it's formatted as NTFS.

Go to my computer, right click on the drive in question, click properties.

It will say either NTFS or FAT32.

[Penguin Rick]

Can I change it from FAT32 to NTFS?

[CrazyCarl]

you'd have to reformat, which would erase everything

[s0bv1ou5lyd3sprt]

Has anyone had any experience with these mobile hotspot devices? It's wifi for in your vehicle. I saw one that they were giving away as a prize on the Duel II a week or so ago and I got interested. I did a google search since I couldn't remember the name of the specific one they were giving away, but it sounds awesome. And if you do have one, which one do you have?